Six Kitchens That Shop Before Sunrise: Following Smithfield to the Menu
Ask a London restaurant where its beef comes from and you'll usually get a farm. Ask who sold it and the answer goes vague — which is odd, because the trail often runs back to a rail in EC1 and a trader who has been awake since the night before. Six kitchens where you can taste what the market sold that morning, and what to order when you get there.